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Blue Gourami
Trichopodus trichopterus
Animalia›Chordata›Actinopterygii
📍 Southeast Asia
A hardy and widely kept gourami from Southeast Asia, displaying a silver-blue body with two darker blue spots along the lateral line and long, filamentous pelvic fins used for sensing. It is a labyrinth fish that breathes atmospheric air and can be mildly aggressive toward conspecifics, so it is best kept as a single specimen or pair in a 20+ gallon tank.
Care Guide
Diet
Blue Gouramis are omnivorous and should be fed high-quality flake foods and small pellets as a staple, supplemented 2-3 times weekly with frozen foods like brine shrimp, bloodworms, or daphnia. They will also nibble on soft plant matter and algae. Feed once daily in amounts they can consume in 2-3 minutes.
Behavior
Blue Gouramis are labyrinth breathers that frequently surface to gulp air, and they are semi-aggressive, particularly toward other gouramis and similarly-shaped fish. Males are territorial and will chase smaller or weaker fish, though they generally tolerate peaceful community species if the tank is large enough. They are active swimmers that prefer the upper and middle water columns and appreciate plants for shelter and resting spots.
Breeding
Breeding Blue Gouramis in captivity is moderately difficult and requires specific conditions including warm water (26-28°C), dense floating plants for nest building, and separation of the pair into a breeding tank. Males build bubble nests and are mouthbrooding; fry are tiny and require infusoria or liquid fry food initially. Breeding is possible but requires patience and careful conditioning of the pair.
Tank Mates
Small, fast-moving schooling fish that stay in groups and avoid confrontation; occupy mid-water zone
Peaceful schooling fish that occupy mid-water zones and are too quick to be easily harassed
Nocturnal algae eater that occupies bottom zone; minimal interaction with gouramis and helps maintain tank cleanliness
Peaceful invertebrate that helps with algae control; generally ignored by gouramis unless very small
Can be kept together but requires careful observation; males may fight, so only attempt with ample space and hiding spots
Common Diseases
Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis)
White spots on body and fins, rapid breathing, rubbing against objects, lethargy
Increase water temperature to 28-30°C, perform daily 25% water changes, use aquarium salt (1 teaspoon per 5 gallons) or commercial ich treatment; treat for 7-10 days
Fin Rot
Frayed or deteriorating fins, discoloration at fin edges, lethargy
Perform 25-50% water changes, improve water quality, reduce tank aggression, use antibacterial medication if severe; ensure water parameters are optimal
Labyrinth Organ Infection
Difficulty breathing, gasping at surface, swollen gill area, loss of appetite
Maintain pristine water conditions with frequent changes, ensure access to surface for air gulping, use broad-spectrum antibiotics if bacterial; avoid poor water quality
Velvet Disease (Oodinium)
Fine gold or rust-colored dust on body, rapid breathing, scratching, clamped fins
Increase temperature to 28-30°C, perform daily water changes, use copper-free velvet treatment or salt; darken tank as parasite is light-sensitive
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Water it likes
- ph
- 6.0–8.0
- ammonia
- 0 ppm
- nitrate
- <20 ppm
- temperature
- 72–82°F (22–28°C)