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Chinese Trapdoor Snail
Bellamya chinensis
📍 Southeast Asia (China, Vietnam, Thailand)
The Chinese Trapdoor Snail is a large, hardy freshwater snail prized for its impressive size and algae-eating capabilities. Named for the operculum (trapdoor) that seals its shell opening, this species is excellent for established aquariums and can live for many years with proper care. They are peaceful detritivores that help maintain tank cleanliness by consuming algae, biofilm, and decaying plant matter.
Care Guide
Diet
Chinese Trapdoor Snails are primarily herbivorous and will graze on algae and biofilm throughout the tank. Supplement with blanched vegetables (zucchini, spinach, lettuce), algae wafers, and quality sinking pellets. Feed 2-3 times weekly; they are efficient scavengers and do not require daily feeding in established tanks with adequate natural food sources.
Behavior
These snails are nocturnal and spend much of the day resting or slowly grazing along the substrate and hardscape. They are solitary and do not require companions, though multiple individuals can coexist peacefully if the tank is large enough. The trapdoor mechanism allows them to seal themselves inside their shell for protection, and they may remain sealed for extended periods if stressed or during acclimation.
Breeding
Chinese Trapdoor Snails are dioecious (separate sexes) and require both males and females to breed. Females lay clusters of eggs above the waterline on hardscape or tank walls; eggs hatch in 2-4 weeks into miniature snails. Breeding can occur readily in established tanks, potentially leading to population explosions if not managed, so regular egg removal may be necessary.
Tank Mates
Both are peaceful bottom-dwellers that do not compete for food or space
Small algae eaters that occupy the same ecological niche without conflict
Small, peaceful schooling fish that ignore snails and occupy mid-water zones
Peaceful and slow-moving; generally ignore snails but may occasionally peck at them
Small, docile gourami that poses minimal threat to adult snails
Common Diseases
Shell Erosion / Calcium Deficiency
Pitting, flaking, or thinning of the shell; visible damage to the shell surface; slow growth
Increase water hardness through mineral supplements or crushed coral in the substrate; provide cuttlebone or calcium-enriched foods; ensure pH is stable and adequate (6.5+)
Parasitic Flukes
Excessive mucus production; lethargy; snail remains sealed in shell for extended periods; visible parasites on body or shell
Perform 25-30% water changes; treat with anti-parasitic medication (fenbendazole or praziquantel) following label directions; quarantine affected snails if possible; improve water quality and reduce stressors
Bacterial Shell Infection
Discoloration or dark spots on shell; soft or mushy areas; foul odor; shell deterioration
Improve water quality with frequent partial water changes; remove decaying food and organic matter promptly; treat with antibacterial medication if severe; ensure adequate calcium and stable parameters
Copper Toxicity
Lethargy; refusal to emerge from shell; loss of appetite; death
Perform immediate large water changes (50%+) to dilute copper; avoid all copper-based medications and treatments; use copper-free plant fertilizers; test water for copper levels; snails are highly sensitive to copper and should never be exposed to it
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Quick Facts
- diet
- Herbivore/detritivore - consumes algae, biofilm, decaying plants, and organic debris
- lifespan
- 4-7 years
- max size
- 6 cm (2.5 in)
- tank size
- 20 gallons minimum
- temperament
- peaceful
Water it likes
- ph
- 6.5-8.0
- ammonia
- 0 ppm
- nitrate
- <20 ppm
- hardness
- 6-15 dGH
- temperature
- 64–82°F (18–28°C)