Macmasteri Dwarf Cichlid

Apistogramma macmasteri

Animalia›Chordata›Actinopterygii

📍 South America

A colorful dwarf cichlid from the Colombian llanos, with males displaying vivid yellow, orange, and blue flanks with distinctive red lateral markings and a yellow-to-red caudal fin. It is hardier and more adaptable to water parameters than many Apistogramma species, suitable for a planted 20-gallon tank as a pair, though males can be aggressive toward each other.

Size3"

Min Tank20g

semi-aggressive

Zonebottom

Care Guide

Diet

Macmasteri dwarf cichlids are omnivorous and require a varied diet of high-quality micropellets, small flakes, and frozen foods such as brine shrimp, daphnia, and bloodworms. Feed small portions once daily, offering only what they can consume in 2-3 minutes. Supplement occasionally with vegetable matter like blanched spinach or algae-based foods.

Behavior

These cichlids are territorial and semi-aggressive, particularly males defending spawning sites or established territories. They are bottom-dwellers that spend most of their time foraging along the substrate and exploring caves or dense vegetation. They are most active during dawn and dusk, displaying vibrant coloration when establishing dominance or courting.

Breeding

Breeding in captivity is moderately difficult but achievable with proper conditioning and cave structures. Pairs require pristine water conditions, temperatures around 75-78°F, and plenty of hiding spots; females will guard fry aggressively while males defend the territory. Expect 50-100 fry per spawn, though survival rates depend heavily on water quality and food availability for the fry.

Tank Mates

Otocinclus

Peaceful algae eaters that occupy different tank zones and won't compete for food or territory

good

Ember Tetra

Small, fast-moving tetras that stay in mid-water column and are too quick to be reliably predated upon

good

Red Cherry Shrimp

May be preyed upon by larger males; only suitable in heavily planted tanks with ample hiding spots

caution

Anubias Nana

Hardy plant that provides shelter and won't be uprooted by digging behavior

excellent

Common Diseases

Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis)

Symptoms

White spots on body and fins, rapid breathing, flashing against surfaces, lethargy

Treatment

Raise temperature gradually to 82°F, perform daily 25% water changes, use ich medication (malachite green or formalin) following label instructions for 7-10 days

Fin Rot

Symptoms

Frayed or deteriorating fin edges, discoloration at fin bases, progressive fin loss

Treatment

Improve water quality with frequent partial water changes, maintain stable parameters, use antibacterial medication if secondary infection suspected; remove sharp decorations

Bloat (Malawi Bloat)

Symptoms

Swollen abdomen, loss of appetite, difficulty swimming, pale coloration

Treatment

Perform large water change, fast the fish for 2-3 days, feed high-quality varied diet with vegetable content; ensure water parameters are stable and tank not overcrowded

Hole-in-the-Head Disease

Symptoms

Small pits or holes developing on head and lateral line, loss of appetite, lethargy

Treatment

Improve water quality and perform frequent changes, use activated carbon in filter, treat with metronidazole if parasitic infection suspected; ensure varied diet with vitamin supplementation