Flora & Fauna

Dense, dark grey-to-black tufts that cling stubbornly to plants, hardscape, and equipment. One of the most frustrating nuisance algaes for planted tank keepers. Caused by CO₂ fluctuation and low or inconsistent carbon dioxide levels. Spot-treat with liquid carbon (Excel) or hydrogen peroxide.

Dense, rough-textured mats of dark green filaments that blanket pond plants and surfaces. Common in outdoor ponds and highly nutrient-rich tanks. More coarse and branched than soft hair algae. Difficult to eradicate fully — physically remove as much as possible before treating with algaecide or reducing nutrients aggressively.

A blue-green or red-brown slime that coats the substrate, plants, and glass with a slimy, foul-smelling mat. Technically a bacterium, not true algae. Caused by low nitrates, poor flow, and organic waste. Responds to a 3-day blackout combined with the antibiotic erythromycin or hydrogen peroxide treatment.

Red, purple, or dark blue-green slime mats that smother the sandbed and rockwork with a slimy, oxygen-depleting film. Technically a bacterium. Caused by low nitrates, poor flow, and high dissolved organics. A 3-day blackout, hydrogen peroxide spot-treatment, and improved flow usually break the cycle.

Feathery, fern-like dark green algae that is notoriously difficult to eliminate — one of the most persistent reef tank nuisances. Resistant to most herbivores. Best controlled by raising magnesium to 1500–1800 ppm for 2–4 weeks (magnesium treatment). Sea hares will consume it but are not a permanent solution.

Iridescent green spheres that appear harmless in small numbers but rapidly colonise rock if left unchecked. Emerald crabs are the most effective biological control. Do not pop bubbles — they release spores and worsen the outbreak. Manual removal requires extracting the entire holdfast; even fragments regrow.

Fine, fluffy dark green tufts that resemble a softer version of Bryopsis. Often appears in high-nutrient systems and around powerhead intakes. Like Bryopsis it is resistant to most herbivores. Sea hares will consume it; magnesium treatment (1500–1800 ppm) is effective. Reducing phosphate below 0.05 ppm also helps.

Flat, iridescent brown-olive blades that spread over rockwork and corals. Beautiful under certain lighting — shimmers blue-green — but highly invasive in reef tanks. Produces chemical deterrents that most fish avoid. Very difficult to eliminate; manual removal stimulates regrowth. Sea urchins (Diadema) and Thalassoma wrasses occasionally graze it.

Brown, stringy, bubble-filled slime that often appears in new reef tanks — frequently mistaken for cyanobacteria. Dinoflagellates ('dinos') form slimy mats that can smother corals and sandbed. Treatment is complex: raise nitrates (>2 ppm), raise phosphates (>0.05 ppm), run extended dark periods, and increase UV sterilisation. One of the most frustrating reef nuisances.

Dark, wiry filaments of cyanobacteria that form dense mats — often mistaken for BBA. Unlike true algae, it can fix atmospheric nitrogen, meaning low nitrogen levels do not suppress it. Produces toxins harmful to invertebrates. Requires the same treatment as blue-green algae: blackout, H₂O₂ treatment, and improved flow.

Grey-green single strands that branch into antler-like forks — often tangled in plant leaves and filter intakes. Like BBA, it signals CO₂ problems. More responsive to spot-treatment with liquid carbon than BBA. Siamese Algae Eaters will consume it.

A dense mat of mixed short filamentous algae — the dominant algae type on wave-swept reef flats in nature. In captivity it traps detritus and is extremely difficult to manually remove. Sea urchins (Diadema, Tuxedo) and tangs are the most effective grazers. Consider a manual scraping plus herbivore-stocking approach.

Remarkable bright green net-like colonies — a tessellated honeycomb of cells visible to the naked eye. Beautiful under a microscope but a serious nuisance in garden ponds. Thrives in warm, nutrient-rich water. Manual removal is the primary method as few animals eat it effectively.