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Borellii Dwarf Cichlid
Apistogramma borellii
Animalia›Chordata›Actinopterygii
📍 South America
A delicate and colorful dwarf cichlid from the Paraguay and lower Paraná basins, with males showing stunning blue facial iridescence and yellow-to-blue body coloration. It is among the more cool-water tolerant Apistogramma species (68–79°F), peaceful enough for community setups with small, non-aggressive tankmates, and best kept as a pair in a well-planted 20-gallon tank.
Care Guide
Diet
Borellii dwarf cichlids are omnivorous and require a varied diet of high-quality micro pellets, small flake foods, and regular offerings of frozen foods such as brine shrimp, daphnia, and bloodworms. Feed small portions once daily, only what they can consume in a few minutes, as they prefer grazing throughout the day.
Behavior
These cichlids are relatively peaceful for their family, though males can be territorial during breeding. They spend most of their time on or near the substrate, exploring and foraging among plants and décor. Pairs form strong bonds and will defend a small territory, but they tolerate small, non-aggressive community fish well.
Breeding
Breeding in captivity is moderately difficult but achievable with proper conditioning and setup. Pairs require dense vegetation, caves, or PVC pipes for spawning sites, and water parameters must be stable with slightly acidic pH (6.0-6.5) and warm temperatures (75-78°F). The female will lay 40-100 eggs and guard them fiercely; fry are free-swimming in 5-7 days and can be fed infusoria or liquid fry food initially.
Tank Mates
Peaceful algae eaters that occupy different tank zones and share similar water parameters
Small, non-aggressive schooling fish that thrive in similar cool, slightly acidic conditions
May be preyed upon by cichlids, but larger colonies can coexist in well-planted tanks
Small, peaceful schooling fish that prefer similar cool water and acidic conditions
Hardy plant that provides shelter and won't be uprooted by foraging cichlids
Common Diseases
Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis)
White spots on body and fins, rapid breathing, lethargy, rubbing against objects
Raise temperature gradually to 79-80°F, perform daily 25% water changes, and treat with aquarium salt or ich medication; maintain good water quality
Fin Rot
Frayed or deteriorating fin edges, discoloration at fin bases, lethargy
Improve water quality through frequent partial water changes, remove any sharp décor, and treat with antibacterial medication if severe
Bloat (Malawi Bloat)
Swollen abdomen, loss of appetite, difficulty swimming, pale coloration
Perform large water changes, feed high-quality varied diet with vegetable matter, avoid overfeeding; use medicated food if condition persists
Velvet Disease (Oodinium)
Fine golden or rust-colored dust on body, rapid breathing, scratching behavior, clamped fins
Increase aeration, raise temperature to 79°F, perform daily water changes, and treat with copper-free velvet medication
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Varieties
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Water it likes
- ph
- 5.5–7.0
- ammonia
- 0 ppm
- nitrate
- <20 ppm
- temperature
- 68–79°F (20–26°C)