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Daffodil Cichlid
Neolamprologus pulcher
Animalia›Chordata›Actinopterygii›Cichliformes›Cichlidae
📍 Lake Tanganyika, Africa
Graceful Tanganyikan cichlid with creamy yellow fins edged in electric blue. Forms cooperative family groups where offspring from previous spawns help raise younger siblings — one of the few cooperatively breeding fish.
Care Guide
Diet
Daffodil Cichlids are omnivores that require a varied diet of high-quality cichlid pellets, flake foods, and regular supplementation with frozen foods like brine shrimp, bloodworms, and daphnia. Feed small amounts once daily, offering only what they can consume in 2-3 minutes. Include vegetable matter occasionally such as blanched spinach or spirulina-based foods to support digestive health.
Behavior
Daffodil Cichlids are semi-aggressive and highly social fish that form stable family groups with cooperative breeding behavior—a rare trait where older offspring help raise younger siblings. They are active mid-water swimmers that establish territories but remain relatively peaceful compared to other cichlids, especially within their family unit. They exhibit interesting social hierarchies and will display vibrant coloration during social interactions and spawning.
Breeding
Breeding in captivity is moderately difficult but achievable with proper conditions. Pairs require stable water parameters (pH 7.5-9.0, temperature 24-26°C), caves or PVC tubes for spawning sites, and excellent water quality. Fry are protected by both parents and older siblings; remove fry only if parents become aggressive, though the cooperative family structure typically prevents this.
Tank Mates
Peaceful bottom-dweller that won't compete with cichlids; shares similar water parameter preferences
Algae-eating snail that is too hard-shelled for cichlids to damage; maintains water quality
Small schooling fish that may trigger predatory response; only suitable in larger tanks with plenty of cover
Small, peaceful fish that can work in established tanks with adequate space and hiding spots
Common Diseases
Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis)
White spots on body and fins, rapid breathing, flashing against objects, lethargy
Raise temperature gradually to 28-29°C, perform 25% water changes daily, use aquarium salt (1 teaspoon per 5 gallons) or commercial ich treatment; maintain for 10-14 days
Fin Rot
Frayed or deteriorating fin edges, discoloration at fin margins, progressive fin damage
Improve water quality with frequent partial water changes, reduce stress, use antibacterial medication if severe; ensure pH and temperature stability
Hole-in-the-Head (HITH)
Small pits or holes developing on head and lateral line, loss of appetite, lethargy
Perform large water changes, improve diet with quality foods and vitamin supplements, use metronidazole if bacterial; ensure excellent water quality and varied nutrition
Bloat/Dropsy
Swollen abdomen, scales standing on end (pinecone appearance), lethargy, loss of appetite
Isolate fish, perform water changes, feed high-quality foods sparingly, use antibiotics if bacterial; may be difficult to treat if advanced
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Quick Facts
- pH
- 7.5–9.0
- diet
- omnivore
- maxSize
- 4 inches
- minTankSize
- 30 gallons
- temperature
- 73–81°F (23–27°C)
Temperature
73–81°F
23–27°C