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Green Swordtail
Xiphophorus hellerii
Animalia›Chordata›Actinopterygii
Variety of Swordtail · green
📍 Central America
The natural wild-type coloration of the swordtail, featuring an olive-green to brown body with a faint lateral stripe and the characteristic elongated lower caudal fin lobe in males. It is the closest in appearance to the wild fish and is hardy and active, suitable for community tanks with hard, alkaline water.
Care Guide
Diet
Green swordtails are omnivorous and should be fed high-quality flake food or small pellets as a staple, supplemented 2-3 times weekly with frozen foods like brine shrimp, daphnia, or bloodworms. Include vegetable matter such as blanched spinach or algae wafers to support digestive health. Feed small amounts once daily, only what they can consume in 2-3 minutes.
Behavior
Active and peaceful swimmers that spend most of their time in the mid-water column, though they will explore all tank levels. Males are territorial toward each other and may display aggressive fin-spreading, so only one male per tank is recommended unless the tank is very large. They are social with females and other peaceful community fish, displaying characteristic darting movements and occasional surface feeding.
Breeding
Swordtails are prolific livebearers that breed readily in captivity with minimal intervention; females can produce 20-100 fry every 4-6 weeks once mature. Provide dense vegetation or breeding box to protect fry from predation by adults. Separate males and females if population control is desired, as uncontrolled breeding will quickly overpopulate the tank.
Tank Mates
Similar peaceful temperament and water requirements; males may compete for territory but generally coexist well
Closely related livebearers with identical care needs and compatible social behavior
Small schooling fish that occupy mid-water and pose no threat; swordtails ignore them
Peaceful algae eater that stays small and occupies bottom zone without competing for resources
Peaceful invertebrate that helps control algae and does not compete with fish for food
Common Diseases
Fin Rot
Frayed, torn, or disintegrating fins; white or dark edges on fin tissue; lethargy
Perform 25-30% water changes every 2-3 days, improve water quality, maintain temperature at 76-78°F, and treat with aquarium salt (1 teaspoon per 5 gallons) or antibacterial medication if severe
Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis)
White spots resembling salt grains on body and fins; scratching against objects; rapid breathing
Raise temperature gradually to 82-86°F over 48 hours, perform daily 25% water changes, and treat with ich medication or aquarium salt following product instructions for 7-10 days
Velvet Disease
Fine golden or rust-colored dust on body; lethargy; rapid gill movement; loss of appetite
Reduce light exposure, raise temperature to 80-82°F, perform 25% water changes daily, and treat with copper-based medication or methylene blue following dosage instructions
Dropsy
Swollen abdomen; scales standing out like a pinecone; lethargy; loss of appetite
Isolate affected fish, perform frequent water changes, maintain optimal water quality, and treat with antibacterial medication; prognosis is often poor if advanced
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Varieties
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Water it likes
- ph
- 7.0–8.3
- ammonia
- 0 ppm
- nitrate
- <20 ppm
- temperature
- 64–79°F (18–26°C)