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Odessa Barb
Pethia padamya
Animalia›Chordata›Actinopterygii›Cyprinidae
📍 Myanmar
Males develop a striking iridescent red flame along the flanks. Hardy and adaptable — one of the most underrated aquascaping barbs. Groups create a stunning display of colour in midwater.
Care Guide
Diet
Odessa Barbs are omnivores that thrive on a varied diet of high-quality flake foods, micro pellets, and regular supplements of frozen foods like brine shrimp, daphnia, and bloodworms. Feed small amounts once daily, offering only what they can consume in 2-3 minutes. Occasional vegetable matter such as blanched spinach or algae wafers supports digestive health.
Behavior
These active, schooling fish are semi-aggressive and display best colors and behavior when kept in groups of at least 6 individuals, where they establish a loose hierarchy without excessive aggression. Males are particularly vibrant during feeding and when interacting with their school, constantly patrolling the mid-water column. They may nip at slower-moving fish or long-finned species, so tank mates should be selected carefully.
Breeding
Breeding Odessa Barbs in captivity is moderately difficult and rarely occurs in community tanks. They require slightly acidic, warm water (24-26°C), dense vegetation or spawning mops, and separate breeding tanks to protect eggs and fry from predation. Conditioning with live foods before spawning increases success rates, though fry are small and require infusoria or liquid fry food initially.
Tank Mates
Similar size, water parameters, and mid-water swimming habits; peaceful and non-competitive
Small algae eaters that occupy different ecological niche; may be nipped if too slow-moving
Similar temperament and size; compatible water parameters but may compete for food
Nocturnal bottom-dweller; provides algae control without direct competition
Peaceful but smaller; may be nipped by aggressive barbs, especially during feeding
Common Diseases
Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis)
White spots on body and fins, rapid breathing, flashing against objects, lethargy
Raise temperature gradually to 28-30°C, perform daily 25% water changes, use aquarium salt (1 tsp per gallon) or commercial ich treatment; treat for 7-10 days
Fin Rot
Frayed or deteriorating fins, discoloration at fin edges, lethargy
Improve water quality with frequent partial changes, remove sharp decorations, use antibacterial medication if severe; ensure adequate filtration and avoid overcrowding
Bacterial Infection
Red streaks on body, swollen abdomen, loss of appetite, torn fins
Perform 50% water change immediately, maintain pristine water conditions, use broad-spectrum antibiotic medication; isolate severely affected fish if possible
Parasitic Infection (Flukes/Worms)
Excessive scratching, clamped fins, visible parasites, weight loss despite feeding
Use anti-parasitic medication designed for freshwater fish; perform water changes during treatment; quarantine new fish before adding to main tank
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Quick Facts
- pH
- 6.0–7.5
- diet
- omnivore
- maxSize
- 3 inches
- minTankSize
- 30 gallons
- temperature
- 64–77°F (18–25°C)
Temperature
64–77°F
18–25°C