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True Percula Clownfish
Amphiprion percula
Animalia›Chordata›Actinopterygii›Pomacentridae
📍 Pacific Ocean, Great Barrier Reef to Melanesia
Slightly more vibrant coloring than its ocellaris cousin. Pairs beautifully with Bubbletip or Magnificent anemones. Very popular reef fish.
Care Guide
Diet
True Percula Clownfish are omnivores that thrive on a varied diet of high-quality marine flakes, small pellets, and frozen foods like brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, and copepods. Feed once daily in small portions that can be consumed within 2-3 minutes. Supplement occasionally with algae-based foods and blanched vegetables to support overall health and coloration.
Behavior
These clownfish are semi-aggressive and highly territorial, especially when paired or hosting an anemone. They exhibit curious, active behavior during the day and spend considerable time near their host anemone or preferred shelter. Pairs bond strongly and will defend their territory vigorously against other fish, though they remain relatively peaceful toward larger species and invertebrates.
Breeding
Breeding True Percula Clownfish in captivity is moderately difficult but achievable with proper conditioning and stable water parameters. Pairs will lay eggs on flat surfaces near their anemone host; eggs hatch in 8-9 days and fry require specialized rearing with copepod-sized foods. Success requires patience, excellent water quality, and separate rearing tanks for larvae.
Tank Mates
Similar species may compete for territory and anemone access; only compatible in very large tanks with multiple anemones
Beneficial symbiotic relationship; shrimp remove parasites and algae without threat to clownfish
Peaceful invertebrate that occupies different tank zones; no predatory threat to clownfish
Small, peaceful fish that provides cleaning services and poses no territorial conflict
Fast-moving, non-aggressive species that stays in lower tank zones away from clownfish territory
Algae-eating invertebrate that does not compete for food or space with clownfish
Common Diseases
Ich (Marine White Spot Disease)
White spots on body and fins, rapid breathing, rubbing against surfaces, lethargy
Raise temperature gradually to 28-29°C, maintain excellent water quality, use copper-based or formalin treatments; quarantine infected fish if possible
Fin Rot
Frayed or deteriorating fin edges, discoloration at fin bases, progressive fin loss
Improve water quality immediately, perform frequent partial water changes, use antibacterial medications if severe; ensure adequate anemone host for stress reduction
Velvet Disease (Oodinium)
Fine golden or rust-colored dust on body, rapid breathing, loss of appetite, scratching behavior
Increase aeration, raise temperature to 28-29°C, use copper treatments or formalin; quarantine and treat separately to protect tank inhabitants
Bacterial Infection
Open sores, cloudy eyes, swollen abdomen, torn fins, behavioral changes
Perform large water changes, maintain pristine water quality, use broad-spectrum antibiotics if available; isolate in quarantine tank if condition worsens
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Quick Facts
- pH
- 8.1–8.4
- diet
- omnivore
- maxSize
- 3 inches
- salinity
- 1.023–1.025 SG
- minTankSize
- 20 gallons
- temperature
- 75–81°F (24–27°C)
Temperature
75–81°F
24–27°C