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Crowntail Betta
Betta splendens 'Crowntail'
Animalia›Chordata›Actinopterygii›Osphronemidae
Variety of Halfmoon Betta · crowntail
📍 Thailand & Cambodia
The Crowntail Betta features dramatically extended fin rays with webbing reduced to one-half or less of the ray length, creating the appearance of a spiky crown. This striking mutation originated in Jakarta in the 1990s and quickly became one of the most popular betta tail types. Males are bold and territorial; their long rays require careful attention to water quality and tank decor to prevent damage.
Care Guide
Diet
Crowntail Bettas are strict carnivores and should be fed high-quality betta pellets as their staple diet, supplemented 2-3 times weekly with frozen or live foods such as bloodworms, daphnia, or brine shrimp. Feed small portions once daily, only what they can consume in 2-3 minutes, as bettas are prone to overfeeding and constipation.
Behavior
Males are highly aggressive and territorial, requiring solitary housing; they will attack other males on sight and may harass peaceful community fish. Crowntails are surface-dwelling fish that build bubble nests when healthy and content, displaying elaborate fin flaring and dancing behaviors. Their extended crown-like fins make them bold swimmers but also prone to fin damage from sharp decorations or aggressive tank mates.
Breeding
Breeding Crowntail Bettas in captivity is moderately difficult and requires careful conditioning of both male and female in separate tanks with high-protein foods for 2-3 weeks. Males build bubble nests and will embrace females during spawning; fry are tiny and require infusoria or liquid fry food for the first week before graduating to micro pellets. Remove the female immediately after spawning as the male becomes highly aggressive and will kill her.
Tank Mates
Peaceful bottom-dweller that avoids the betta's territory; helps control algae without competing for food
Slow-moving snail that poses no threat; some bettas may nip at tentacles but rarely cause serious harm
Hardy snail with a hard shell that resists betta aggression; excellent algae eater for planted tanks
May be viewed as food by the betta; only suitable in heavily planted 10+ gallon tanks where shrimp can hide
Nocturnal bottom-dweller that occupies different tank zones; peaceful and helps with algae control
Common Diseases
Fin Rot
Fraying, discoloration, or deterioration of fin edges; often starts at the tips and progresses toward the body
Perform 25% water changes every 2-3 days, maintain pristine water quality (0 ammonia, <20 ppm nitrate), and consider adding aquarium salt at 1 teaspoon per 5 gallons; antibacterial medications like Maracyn may be needed for severe cases
Ich (White Spot Disease)
Tiny white spots covering the body and fins; lethargy, loss of appetite, and excessive scratching against decorations
Raise water temperature gradually to 28-30°C (82-86°F) to speed up the parasite lifecycle, perform daily 25% water changes, and treat with aquarium salt or ich-specific medication; maintain treatment for 7-10 days
Velvet Disease
Fine golden or rust-colored dust coating the body, clamped fins, rapid gill movement, and lethargy
Darken the tank (velvet parasites are photosynthetic), raise temperature to 28-30°C, and treat with copper-based medication or salt; perform daily water changes and isolate the fish if possible
Constipation
Bloated appearance, loss of appetite, lethargy, and inability to produce waste; sometimes accompanied by a curved spine
Fast the fish for 2-3 days, then feed small amounts of blanched peas or daphnia to promote digestion; ensure water temperature is 26-28°C to aid metabolism
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Quick Facts
- diet
- Carnivore – betta pellets, bloodworms, daphnia
- lifespan
- 2–4 years
- max size
- 7 cm (2.75 in)
- tank size
- 5 gallons minimum
- temperament
- Highly aggressive toward male conspecifics
Water it likes
- ph
- 6.5–7.5
- ammonia
- 0 ppm
- nitrate
- <20 ppm
- hardness
- 2–12 dGH
- temperature
- 75–86°F (24–30°C)