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Black Moor Goldfish
Carassius auratus
Animalia›Chordata›Actinopterygii
Variety of Fancy Goldfish · black moor
📍 Captive-bred (hybrid)
A fancy goldfish variety recognized by its velvety jet-black coloration and distinctively protruding telescope eyes, which make it more vulnerable to injury and infection. It is a slow swimmer best kept with other fancy goldfish rather than fast pond varieties, in an unplanted tank with smooth decorations.
Care Guide
Diet
Black Moors are omnivorous and should be fed high-quality sinking goldfish pellets as their staple diet, supplemented 2-3 times weekly with blanched vegetables like peas, zucchini, and spinach. Offer frozen foods such as bloodworms and brine shrimp 1-2 times per week. Feed only what they can consume in 2-3 minutes, once daily, as overfeeding causes water quality issues and health problems.
Behavior
Black Moors are slow, deliberate swimmers that spend much of their time foraging along the bottom and mid-water levels. They are peaceful and social fish that do best in groups of other fancy goldfish varieties, though they can be kept singly. Their poor eyesight due to protruding telescope eyes makes them vulnerable to injury, so they should never be housed with fast, aggressive, or fin-nipping species.
Breeding
Breeding Black Moors in captivity is possible but challenging and rarely achieved by hobbyists. They require cooler water temperatures (around 60-65°F) to trigger spawning, along with dense plants or spawning mops. Fry are difficult to raise due to their small size and specific dietary needs, making successful breeding uncommon in home aquariums.
Tank Mates
Ideal companions with similar size, temperament, and water requirements; share the same slow swimming pace
Peaceful scavenger that helps with algae and debris without competing for food or harassing the goldfish
Small, peaceful snail that aids in tank cleaning and poses no threat to the Black Moor
Hardy snail that grazes algae without reproducing excessively or being eaten by the goldfish
Common Diseases
Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis)
White spots on body and fins, flashing against decorations, rapid breathing, lethargy
Raise water temperature gradually to 74-76°F, perform 25% water changes daily, use aquarium salt (1 teaspoon per 5 gallons) or commercial ich treatment; maintain for 10-14 days
Fin Rot
Frayed or deteriorating fins, discoloration at fin edges, fin loss
Perform 25-50% water changes immediately, improve water quality, add aquarium salt, use antibiotic treatment if severe; remove any sharp decorations that may cause injury
Eye Infections/Cloudy Eye
Swelling or cloudiness of the telescope eyes, discharge, difficulty seeing
Perform frequent water changes to reduce ammonia and nitrite, use antibiotic eye drops or broad-spectrum antibiotics; ensure smooth tank decorations to prevent eye injury
Constipation/Swim Bladder Disorder
Floating at surface, sinking to bottom, loss of buoyancy control, bloating
Feed blanched peas as a laxative, fast the fish for 1-2 days, ensure proper diet with adequate fiber; maintain stable water temperature and quality
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Varieties
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Water it likes
- ph
- 7.0–8.0
- ammonia
- 0 ppm
- nitrate
- <20 ppm
- temperature
- 61–73°F (16–23°C)