Species Catalogue

A blue-green or red-brown slime that coats the substrate, plants, and glass with a slimy, foul-smelling mat. Technically a bacterium, not true algae. Caused by low nitrates, poor flow, and organic waste. Responds to a 3-day blackout combined with the antibiotic erythromycin or hydrogen peroxide treatment.

Red, purple, or dark blue-green slime mats that smother the sandbed and rockwork with a slimy, oxygen-depleting film. Technically a bacterium. Caused by low nitrates, poor flow, and high dissolved organics. A 3-day blackout, hydrogen peroxide spot-treatment, and improved flow usually break the cycle.

Feathery, fern-like dark green algae that is notoriously difficult to eliminate — one of the most persistent reef tank nuisances. Resistant to most herbivores. Best controlled by raising magnesium to 1500–1800 ppm for 2–4 weeks (magnesium treatment). Sea hares will consume it but are not a permanent solution.

Iridescent green spheres that appear harmless in small numbers but rapidly colonise rock if left unchecked. Emerald crabs are the most effective biological control. Do not pop bubbles — they release spores and worsen the outbreak. Manual removal requires extracting the entire holdfast; even fragments regrow.

A genus of slow-growing rheophytic plants native to Borneo, prized in aquascaping for their thick, waxy leaves that come in a remarkable range of colors — from green and brown to blue, purple, and red — often with iridescent shimmer. They can be grown attached to rocks or driftwood like Anubias, tolerate low to medium light without CO2 injection (though CO2 accelerates growth), and are well-suited to shrimp tanks.